2006 Two Paddocks Pinot Noir

Jane MacQuitty's top 100 summer wines - under £20 

Actor Sam Neill’s Two Paddocks estate is as far from Hollywood as you can get, in New Zealand’s South Island. Central Otago’s potential to produce pinot noir to challenge Burgundy was obvious from the start, and Neill was one of the first to prove the point. This delivers the pure, plummy, silky, rose-scented fruit that impressed me so much initially.

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Of the growing list of vineyard-owning celebrities, Sam Neill (Jurassic Park, The Piano) stands apart in the personal commitment he has put into his Pinot Noir vines. This wine is a blend of three vineyards, and shows off intense flavours of plums and just-ripe red and black cherries, with some toasty oak. Very mouthwatering.

The 2006 Pinot Noir has the edge, quite complex on the earthy, leathery nose; the medium bodied palate inbued with good natural acidity, earthy elements and a light, savoury, grainy finish.

Two Paddocks has made three stylish pinots this year – the stylish, charming Two Paddocks First Paddock 2006 (4 Stars); the oaky textural Two Paddocks Central Otago Pinot Noir (31/2 Stars), but for drinking now, the Picnic has the charm of youth with lots of fruit nicely balanced with a hint of spice, and a good finish.

Very dark. Very youthful but bold and assertive fruit with a swag of oak. Tannins are firm and solid. Has the concentration and depth of flavor to develop over  time.