Here's an exerpt: Like most Pinot Noir vintners, Sam Neill found his original inspiration in the red wines of Burgundy. But "we're hanging by our fingernails" in New Zealand's Central Otago region, he says. Rather than try to imitate Burgundy, Neill says he and the other pioneers in the world's southernmost wine region are finding Central Otago's marginal climate produces wines with "its own kind of excellence."
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